Born on this day

1960 Norbert Bannert, Austrian climber, who ascended Shisha Pangma Central-Peak in 2001.

First ascents on this day

2014 Kula North (6405 m) by a German solo climber.

Gone on this day

2004 Günter Jung, German climber, who ascended Nanga Parbat in 2004, where he died on descent, aged 64. He was the oldest to summit the mountain.

Lhotse and Makalu Summit Areas
Wednesday, 23 March 2022 16:19

Today the series of summit area posts continues. This time Lhotse and Makalu. In the past there were several ascents not on the true summit on both mountains, so maybe with these detailed reports it is now  possible to know, where they stopped. As soon as possible the much more difficult summit history for Manaslu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I will also be explained in detail here. It seems that nearly nobody climbed all the 14 true summits and there will be no more accepted records including one or more of the false summit claims for the future and also the past. It is sure, that Miss Hawley and Xavier Eguskitza, the two main chroniclers of the past, would never have accepted all these false summits, if they had known it. Also it is just unfair to note and count false summits the same way as true summits. This is just logical.  Makalu Lhotse

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Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Summit Area Update
Thursday, 20 May 2021 15:49

Recently some important additions were added to the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Summit Area PDF´s. Especially distances are now shown for all the different "summit" points. Note that for examples the distance on Dhaulagiri to the "Metal Pole Area" is about 140 m, the distance between the Western Rocky Foresummit to the top is about 60 m; on Annapurna from Ridge Junction to the tops is about 65 m and from the tops to C0 is about 190 m.

Manaslu Summit Area Update
Monday, 10 May 2021 12:23


Since we could receive a photo from the South Ridge of Manaslu to the true summit ridge it was necessary to update the overview. Here (picture 17) one can see the whole ridge from the mainly climbed shoulder (C2) to the Foresummit (C3) and the col to the Main summit.

We asked the whole mountaineering community 21 months ago to help to find a solution with this big problem. Somehow it seems that many simply do not know what to do about it. As there was no advisory from anybody it seems that we should make the rules. But there will be no rules at all, just facts. The climbers within proposed «Tolerance Zones» will be noted in a «historical table» with distances to the true tops noted, but of course then there must be a new table with only the ones who finished all climbs on the true top (past, if some and future). It will be necessary for future climbers to know, where each of the «firsts» stopped. If one continues to the true summit, he might be the first from his country, or the first woman or any other first to do so. This will happen despite the proposed «Tolerance Zones». So it will become necessary that every climber who was on Manaslu states where he stopped or show a summit photo. As this is a huge amount of work to research the past completely and also it must be done for Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I it would be just normal that it should be supported by all Alpine Clubs for the sake of accuracy and just for the truth. Also it would be a new run for correct «firsts». There also will be possibilities for firsts to complete the 14 for many countries of the 24 that are now noted as finished without the new knowledge. Yes, it changes history, but better change than just wrong.

On Manaslu we know already the summit points from 35 of the 44 in the 14-8K table. Six were on the true top, 25 were on points C2 to C3 (possible Tolerance Zone) and three to four were below any possible Tolerance Zone, so must be deleted from the « historical table », but of course mentioned below it. And there are nine, where we still do not know where they were. On Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I we also still need the photos or descriptions from several climbers. They should realize that it is serious and necessary for all the mentioned reasons and it needs to correct or confirm all these historical ascents.



Broad Peak Summit Details
Friday, 15 January 2021 20:59

After the detailed descriptions of Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I summit ridges now the summit ridge of Broad Peak is explained in detail in PDF format. You can find it here!

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