04 August

Born on this day

1926 George Irving Bell, American pioneer, who participated in the first ascent of Masherbrum (7821 m) in 1960. He died in 2000, aged 73.
1939 Günter Jung, German climber, who ascended Nanga Parbat in 2004, and died on descent, aged 64.
1950 Josef Mack, German climber, who ascended Everest in 1978.
1950 Jean Müller, Swiss climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1980.
1951 Chris Horley, American climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 1997.
1954 Aleksandr Shinkarenko, Belarusian climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1995.
1956 Ramón Diz, Spanish Andalusian climber, who ascended Everest in 2009, where he also finished the Carstensz-version of the Seven Summits.
1959 Koo Hwa-Jib, Korean climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2000.
1959 Dariusz Załuski, Polish climber, who ascended Gasherbrum II twice (1997 and 2006), Cho Oyu in 2000, Lhotse in 2001, Everest twice (2006 and 2012) and K2 in 2011.
1959 Mohammad Rezashahram (Reza) Shahlaee, Iranian climber, who ascended Everest in 2012, Kangchenjunga in 2013, K2 in 2014 and Annapurna I in 2015.
1961 František Šoltés, Slovak climber, who ascended Gasherbrum I in 1988.
1963 Vladimir Pestrikov, Ukrainian climber, who ascended Lhotse and Dhaulagiri I in 2002. He died in 2003 on Gasherbrum I, aged 39.
1965 Norbert Klammsteiner, Italian (South Tyrolean) climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2000.
1968 Lin Zhi-Hui, Chinese climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2019.
1969 Johan Ernst Nilson, Swedish climber, who ascended Everest in 2007.
1970 Steven House, American climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2001 and Nanga Parbat in 2005.
1970 Antinios Antonopoulos, Greek climber, who ascended Everest in 2004.
1970 Che Lin-Ping, Chinese climber, who ascended Everest in 2019.
1972 Mie Okubo, Japanese lady climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2002.
1973 Lhakpa Temba, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest three times (2001, 2003 and 2004).
1977 Jagat Singh Negi, Indian climber, who ascended Annapurna I in 2002 and Everest three times (2003, 2005 and 2013).
1978 Benjamin (Ben) Kurdt, American climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2008.
1980 Marion Chaygneaud-Dupuy, French lady climber, who ascended Everest three times (2013, 2016 and 2017).
1984 Fang Wen-Chao, Chinese climber, who ascended Everest in 2016.
1989 Mohamed Sulaiman Aldhuhoori, climber from the United Arab Emirates, who ascended Everest in 2016.
1990 David Lama, Austrian climber, who ascended Cerro Torre in 2011 via the Kompressor route (repeated in 2012 free for the first time, both climbs with Peter Ortner), also in 2011 he climbed Cerro Kishtwar (ca. 6170 m) by a new route named "Yoniverse" and Trango Tower and Chogolisa in 2012 (again both climbs with Peter Ortner). He died in 2019 in an avalanche on Howse Peak, Alberta/BC, Canada, aged 28.

First ascents on this day

1953 Colquecruz (6102 m) by a German party.
1958 Chogolisa NE-Point (7654 m) by a Japanese party.
1958 Haramosh (7406 m) by an Austrian party.
1963 Baltoro Kangri Main- ("III", c. 7300 m) and East-Peaks ("IV", c. 7265 m) by a Japanese party.
1967 Nohbaiznoh Zom (6445 m) by a Japanese party.
1968 Lunkho e Dosare (6902 m) by an Austro-Slovenian party.
1969 Rahozon Zom (6535 m) by an Austrian party.
1970 Argan Kangri I (6789 m) by an Indian party.
1975 Urdok Kangri I (7250 m) by an Austrian party.
1979 Lupghar Sar Central-Peak (c. 7200 m) by a Japanese party.
1982 Hachindar Chhish (6870 m) by a Japanese party.
1984 Seiri Porkush (6771 m) by a British party.
1991 Chong Kumdang Ri I (7071 m) by an Indo-British party.

Gone on this day

1985 Donald Desbrow Whillans, British climber, who, accompanied by Dougal Haston, ascended the South Face of Annapurna I for the first time in 1970 and also ascended Tirich Mir in 1975, died by heart-attack, aged 52.
1986 Mohammad Ali, Pakistani porter and climber, who ascended Gasherbrum I in 1982 and Gasherbrum II in 1985, died on K2 near Camp I.
1993 Valeri Khrishchaty, Kazakh climber, who ascended Everest in 1982, Kangchenjunga West- (Yalung Kang), Central- and Main-Peaks in 1989 and Dhaulagiri I in 1991, died on Khan Tengri, aged 43.