27 July

Born on this day

1931 Raymond Edward (Ray) Genet, American climber, who ascended Everest in 1979 and died on descent, aged 48.
1944 John Barry, British climber, who ascended Everest in 2000.
1947 Michel Pelle, French climber, who ascended Everest in 1992.
1947 Hiroshi Ogasawara, Japanese climber, who ascended Everest in 2010, where he died on descent, aged 62.
1948 Ang Rita I, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I four times (1979, 1980 twice within six days and 1982), Everest ten times (1983, 1984, 1985, winter 1987, 1988, 1990, 1992, 1993, 1995 and 1996, all without supplementary oxygen including the only oxygenless winter ascent of Everest), Cho Oyu four times (1984, 1987, 1994 and 1995) and Kangchenjunga in 1986. He died in 2020, aged 72.
1948 Motoyoshi Tanaka, Japanese climber, who ascended Manaslu in 1971 and Everest in 2003. This is the longest duration between two 8000er ascents!
1951 Stein Peter Aasheim, Norwegian climber, who ascended Everest in 1985.
1953 Shizuo Takegami, Japanese climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2006.
1956 Alan Duane Arnette, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2011, Manaslu in 2013 and K2 in 2014 on his birthday.
1959 Tamara Ena, Ukrainian lady climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1994.
1959 Mark James, British climber, who ascended Everest in 2000.
1959 Nima Temba I, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest in 1992 and Cho Oyu twice (1995 and 2002).
1960 Christoph Zimmer-Conrad, German climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2001.
1961 Valter Perlino, Italian climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2005 and Everest in 2008.
1966 Bryan Keith Chapman, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2010.
1966 Li Wen-Lei, Chinese climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2017.
1966 Bruce Allen Graham, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2019.
1966 Franz Thomas Hölzl, German climber, who ascended Manaslu M in 2023.
1967 Yang Xu-Dong, Chinese climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2019.
1969 Michael Joseph Lavelle, British climber, who ascended Everest in 2019.
1971 Jang Hun-Moo, Korean climber, who ascended Cho Oyu twice (1997 and 2008) and Everest in 2017.
1975 Sebastian Philip Merriman, British climber, who ascended Everest in 2014.
1975 Pasang (c), Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Shisha Pangma Central-Peak in 2000.
1976 Therese Sjursen, Norwegian lady climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2009.
1977 Andrew Williams, British climber, who ascended Everest in 2009.
1977 Luis Nicolas Miranda Rodriquez, Ecuadorian climber, who ascended Makalu in 2022.
1978 Bian Lei-Chen, Chinese climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2017 and Everest in 2018.
1982 Phunuru (a), Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2017.
1988 Kari Dybsjord Røstad, Norwegian lady climber, who ascended Broad Peak in 2017.
1988 Sushil Sherma Limbu, Nepalese climber, who ascended Everest in 2017.
1988 Oliver Rantoul Peven Ames, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2018.
1989 Kipa III, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest twice (2018 and 2019).
1991 Pankaj Gaur, Indian climber, who ascended Makalu in 2019.
1996 Fateh Singh Brar, Indian climber, who ascended Everest in 2013.
2000 Anil Pandurang Kunde, Indian climber, who ascended Everest in 2019.

First ascents on this day

1935 Kharta Changri (7056 m) and Changzheng Ri (6916 m) by a British party.
1963 Kohe Keshni Khan (6755 m) by an Austrian party.
1964 Tirich Mir East (7692 m) by a Norwegian party.
1969 Muhi Zom (6442 m) by a Japanese party.
1974 Karol Zom (aka Thui Zom I, 6660 m) by a Japanese party as well.

Gone on this day

2013 Denali Schmidt, climber from New Zealand and son of Marty Schmidt, who ascended Broad Peak in 2013, died 12 days later on K2, aged 25.
2013 Martin Walter (Marty) Schmidt, climber from New Zealand, who ascended Kangchenjunga in 2001, Cho Oyu five times (twice during four days in 2001, twice during three days in 2004 and 2009), Makalu, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I in 2010, Everest twice (2012 and 2013) and Broad Peak in 2013, died on K2, aged 53.