Almanac

Born on this day

1990 David Lama, Austrian climber, who ascended Cerro Torre in 2011 via the Kompressor route (repeated in 2012 free for the first time, both climbs with Peter Ortner), also in 2011 he climbed Cerro Kishtwar (ca. 6170 m) by a new route named "Yoniverse" and Trango Tower and Chogolisa in 2012 (again both climbs with Peter Ortner). He died in 2019 in an avalanche on Howse Peak, Alberta/BC, Canada, aged 28.


First ascents on this day

1982 Hachindar Chhish (6870 m) by a Japanese party.


Gone on this day

1985 Donald Desbrow Whillans, British climber, who, accompanied by Dougal Haston, ascended the South Face of Annapurna I for the first time in 1970 and also ascended Tirich Mir in 1975, died by heart-attack, aged 52.


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ALL 14 - Table Updated
Wednesday, 13 August 2014 13:52

The All 14 - Table is updated! You can find it here!

 


 
"Herausforderung 8000er" veröffentlicht!
Wednesday, 18 December 2013 12:08

Good news for the German speaking readers (in German):


Die deutsche erweiterte und überarbeitete Version des Buches "On Top of the World - The New Millennium" ist nun nach langer intensiver Arbeit unter dem Titel "Herausforderung 8000er" erschienen.

Es enthält neben spannenden Geschichten zu historischen und neuen Besteigungen im neuen Jahrtausend Routentabellen und Chronikauszüge bis Mitte Oktober 2013 und viele schöne unveröffentlichte Fotos. Auf anderen ausgesuchten Fotos sind auch alle Routen und Versuche genau eingezeichnet. Somit ist das Buch ein Nachschlagewerk, an dem alle Bergfreunde ihre Freude haben werden. Hier kann man es bestellen.

 
Alpine History: Triple Seven Summits finished
Tuesday, 27 August 2013 12:28

August 23rd again marks a date for Alpine History. After a lot of difficulties to confirm the true Second and Third Seven Summits including survey expeditions the challenge was finished with Shkhara on that date by Christian Stangl. Yes, he made a big mistake with the K2 fairy tale in 2010, but with his patience and detailed evidence since then he on one hand is now the first confirmed climber, who summited the Second Seven Summits as well as the Third Seven Summits and on the other hand he helped to establish correct geographical figures. Check the updated table here!

First photos here and here!

 
Czech Success and Tragedy
Saturday, 10 August 2013 12:56

Tomáš Petreček and Marek Novotný were successful on Gasherbrum I and II.

Short report here

Zdeněk Hrubý and Marek Holeček attempted a new route on Gasherbrum I but were not able to top out. Unfortunately on the way down Zdeněk Hrubý fell to his death.

He was one of the Czech leading climbers with eight Main-8000ers (Cho Oyu in 1994, Gasherbrums I and II in 1997, Lhotse in 1999, Shisha Pangma in 2004, Broad Peak in 2007, Dhaulagiri I in 2008 and Nanga Parbat in 2012) and the president of the Czech Mountaineering Federation. It appears that he died on his 57th birthday. 

Report

Our condolences go to his family and friends!

 
Success on Gasherbrum I
Monday, 29 July 2013 10:25

Despite all the tragedies this season Oscar Cadiach achieved his 13th 8000er today. Now he only needs Broad Peak to finish all 14.

Ascent note here.

 
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