Born on this day

1956 Mathias Harry Renner, German climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2013.

First ascents on this day

2014 Shuchule (6535 m) by a German solo climber.

Gone on this day

1990 An earthquake with its epicenter in Afghanistan resulted in the greatest number of fatalities in a mountaineering accident in High Asian mountains. An avalanche killed 43 climbers in Camp I on Pik Lenina (now Qullai Istiqlol). Leonid Troshchinenko (44), Russian climber, who ascended Kangchenjunga in 1989, was one of the victims.

Manaslu Summit Area Update
Monday, 10 May 2021 12:23


Since we could receive a photo from the South Ridge of Manaslu to the true summit ridge it was necessary to update the overview. Here (picture 17) one can see the whole ridge from the mainly climbed shoulder (C2) to the Foresummit (C3) and the col to the Main summit.

We asked the whole mountaineering community 21 months ago to help to find a solution with this big problem. Somehow it seems that many simply do not know what to do about it. As there was no advisory from anybody it seems that we should make the rules. But there will be no rules at all, just facts. The climbers within proposed «Tolerance Zones» will be noted in a «historical table» with distances to the true tops noted, but of course then there must be a new table with only the ones who finished all climbs on the true top (past, if some and future). It will be necessary for future climbers to know, where each of the «firsts» stopped. If one continues to the true summit, he might be the first from his country, or the first woman or any other first to do so. This will happen despite the proposed «Tolerance Zones». So it will become necessary that every climber who was on Manaslu states where he stopped or show a summit photo. As this is a huge amount of work to research the past completely and also it must be done for Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I it would be just normal that it should be supported by all Alpine Clubs for the sake of accuracy and just for the truth. Also it would be a new run for correct «firsts». There also will be possibilities for firsts to complete the 14 for many countries of the 24 that are now noted as finished without the new knowledge. Yes, it changes history, but better change than just wrong.

On Manaslu we know already the summit points from 35 of the 44 in the 14-8K table. Six were on the true top, 25 were on points C2 to C3 (possible Tolerance Zone) and three to four were below any possible Tolerance Zone, so must be deleted from the « historical table », but of course mentioned below it. And there are nine, where we still do not know where they were. On Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I we also still need the photos or descriptions from several climbers. They should realize that it is serious and necessary for all the mentioned reasons and it needs to correct or confirm all these historical ascents.



Broad Peak Summit Details
Friday, 15 January 2021 20:59

After the detailed descriptions of Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I summit ridges now the summit ridge of Broad Peak is explained in detail in PDF format. You can find it here!

True Summits or Tolerance Zones?
Wednesday, 31 July 2019 13:23

I have been collecting facts about mountains and mountaineering for four decades and I have always sincerely believed that: ‘The highest point of a mountain is the only point that counts as summit'. But in recent times, with more research and better technology, it has become apparent that this absolute topographical approach does not match the reality of climbers and the tops of the 8000m mountains. For the last seven years some colleagues and I have been researching many summit photos , particularly on the three 8000m mountains Manaslu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I that have issues with their precise summit locations and their records of who climbed to where. It is clear now after all this research and communication that many mountaineers, including some well-known ones, have definitely failed to reach the very highest points on one or more of these mountains due to their uncertain topography. Instead, climbers have stopped, knowingly or not, on a selection of lower points - some near to the main summits in altitude and distance, some not so much. To deal accurately but realistically with this sensitive problem we have come to consider the possibility of ‘Summit Zones of Tolerance’. But of course even with this broadening of allowable ‘summits’ it may still affect the historical record of Himalayan climbing. Should some finishing points that are too far or below the true summit be deleted from the official summit lists? Should we have two tables of submitters - a ‘General List’ of those who stopped only within the Tolerance Zone, and then an ‘Elite List’ comprising those who can surely be proven to have stopped on the true highest point? We wish that the climbing community will assist us to find the best solutions to deal with this serious problem. There will be people who think, this is not important. Let us leave it as it is including general “amnesty” for all “historical” ascents. But many others would also love to know, how many really did all true tops of the 14. But it is not only because of the collectors with “all” 14 8000ers climbed. All country firsts, female firsts, winter firsts, route firsts and surely other firsts need to be researched properly.

Manaslu Annapurna I Dhaulagiri I

Ten Years After
Wednesday, 25 April 2018 00:30

Today marks the 10th anniversary of To be honest, the situation is critical. The work increased a lot and there is still not enough income just to survive. We want to publish many research results and a huge amount of updated tables, but first the website must be renewed and this is not possible without the help from the people, who are still interested. A fund, private or company sponsoring or at least enough donations would be helpful.

Last year I asked nearly the same and published an Everest nations table with all important information, but nearly nobody donated.

The new Everest nations table is still not complete, but I will post an Everest daily table including changes to former years.

If there is no existence saving support in the near future, a large part of the High Asian chronicles is highly endagered.

Everest Daily to 2017

Pakistan-8000ers 2017 Summary
Thursday, 12 October 2017 14:45

The Pakistan season was quite long this year. Here is the draft table with all ascents known.

Thanks a lot especially to Rodolphe and Thaneswar! Also to Boyan for the addition and corrections today, October 15th! Update November 12th: Again there are two additions on Broad Peak. Please note that on August 4th nobody went to the true summit despite some of them still celebrate it.


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