Almanac

Born on this day

1991 Takahiro Ito, Japanese climber, who ascended Everest in 2018.


First ascents on this day

1969 Lampak I (6325 m) by an Indian party.


Gone on this day

1988 Narayan Kumar Shrestha, Nepalese Newar climber, who ascended Everest in 1985. He died in an avalanche on Everest, aged 28.


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Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Summit Area Update
Thursday, 20 May 2021 15:49

Recently some important additions were added to the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Summit Area PDF´s. Especially distances are now shown for all the different "summit" points. Note that for examples the distance on Dhaulagiri to the "Metal Pole Area" is about 140 m, the distance between the Western Rocky Foresummit to the top is about 60 m; on Annapurna from Ridge Junction to the tops is about 65 m and from the tops to C0 is about 190 m.

 
Manaslu Summit Area Update
Monday, 10 May 2021 12:23

 

Since we could receive a photo from the South Ridge of Manaslu to the true summit ridge it was necessary to update the overview. Here (picture 17) one can see the whole ridge from the mainly climbed shoulder (C2) to the Foresummit (C3) and the col to the Main summit.

We asked the whole mountaineering community 21 months ago to help to find a solution with this big problem. Somehow it seems that many simply do not know what to do about it. As there was no advisory from anybody it seems that we should make the rules. But there will be no rules at all, just facts. The climbers within proposed «Tolerance Zones» will be noted in a «historical table» with distances to the true tops noted, but of course then there must be a new table with only the ones who finished all climbs on the true top (past, if some and future). It will be necessary for future climbers to know, where each of the «firsts» stopped. If one continues to the true summit, he might be the first from his country, or the first woman or any other first to do so. This will happen despite the proposed «Tolerance Zones». So it will become necessary that every climber who was on Manaslu states where he stopped or show a summit photo. As this is a huge amount of work to research the past completely and also it must be done for Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I it would be just normal that it should be supported by all Alpine Clubs for the sake of accuracy and just for the truth. Also it would be a new run for correct «firsts». There also will be possibilities for firsts to complete the 14 for many countries of the 24 that are now noted as finished without the new knowledge. Yes, it changes history, but better change than just wrong.

On Manaslu we know already the summit points from 35 of the 44 in the 14-8K table. Six were on the true top, 25 were on points C2 to C3 (possible Tolerance Zone) and three to four were below any possible Tolerance Zone, so must be deleted from the « historical table », but of course mentioned below it. And there are nine, where we still do not know where they were. On Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I we also still need the photos or descriptions from several climbers. They should realize that it is serious and necessary for all the mentioned reasons and it needs to correct or confirm all these historical ascents.

Manaslu

 

 
Broad Peak Summit Details
Friday, 15 January 2021 20:59

After the detailed descriptions of Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I summit ridges now the summit ridge of Broad Peak is explained in detail in PDF format. You can find it here!

 
True Summits or Tolerance Zones?
Wednesday, 31 July 2019 13:23

I have been collecting facts about mountains and mountaineering for four decades and I have always sincerely believed that: ‘The highest point of a mountain is the only point that counts as summit'. But in recent times, with more research and better technology, it has become apparent that this absolute topographical approach does not match the reality of climbers and the tops of the 8000m mountains. For the last seven years some colleagues and I have been researching many summit photos , particularly on the three 8000m mountains Manaslu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I that have issues with their precise summit locations and their records of who climbed to where. It is clear now after all this research and communication that many mountaineers, including some well-known ones, have definitely failed to reach the very highest points on one or more of these mountains due to their uncertain topography. Instead, climbers have stopped, knowingly or not, on a selection of lower points - some near to the main summits in altitude and distance, some not so much. To deal accurately but realistically with this sensitive problem we have come to consider the possibility of ‘Summit Zones of Tolerance’. But of course even with this broadening of allowable ‘summits’ it may still affect the historical record of Himalayan climbing. Should some finishing points that are too far or below the true summit be deleted from the official summit lists? Should we have two tables of submitters - a ‘General List’ of those who stopped only within the Tolerance Zone, and then an ‘Elite List’ comprising those who can surely be proven to have stopped on the true highest point? We wish that the climbing community will assist us to find the best solutions to deal with this serious problem. There will be people who think, this is not important. Let us leave it as it is including general “amnesty” for all “historical” ascents. But many others would also love to know, how many really did all true tops of the 14. But it is not only because of the collectors with “all” 14 8000ers climbed. All country firsts, female firsts, winter firsts, route firsts and surely other firsts need to be researched properly.

Manaslu Annapurna I Dhaulagiri I

 
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