Almanac

Born on this day

1950 Tsuguo Seto, Japanese climber, who ascended Shisha Pangma Central-Peak in 1990.


Gone on this day

1989 Jin Kyo-Sup, Korean climber, who ascended Yalung Kang and died on descent, aged 26. Also his summit companion Tchiring Chumbi Lama, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest in autumn 1989, died, aged 36.


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History by Lady Climbers
Friday, 25 May 2012 18:09

The Everest summit waves are very well documented on Alan Arnette's website. Apart from it two lady climbers were writing history. It is reported, that Iranian lady climber Parvaneh Kazemi (41) ascended Everest and Lhotse in a single season. Everest on May 18th and Lhotse on May 25th, both accompanied by Nima Gyalzen II (26). 28 men did this before, but she is the first woman to do so. Also she is the first Iranian woman on Lhotse. Congratulations! 

Brazilian born American woman Cleo Weidlich (48) summited Dhaulagiri I today (May 26th) and is now the first woman, who ascended Annapurna I (on April 20th) and Dhaulagiri I in a single season, which was done by ten men before. Congratulations as well!

 
Kammerlander: A Media Campaign?
Tuesday, 15 May 2012 13:58

Hans Kammerlander is on his way to correct his error on Mount Logan. Before he left, he was in a TV broadcast to talk about a "media campaign" against him and to insult his critics. The whole text with all claims and facts was actually written in German.

Hopefully it is possible for the readers to translate the German text here to know each important detail. A shorter version was published here.

 
Annapurna I - April 20th Preliminary Summary
Wednesday, 09 May 2012 13:17

There were 11 ascents on that day, five of them without bottled oxygen. One of the five was American lady climber Cleo Weidlich (her 6th Main-8000er), another was Chhang Dawa, who ascended his 11th Main-8000er and also three other Sherpa climbers (Dawa Sange a, Kami and Pemba) went without supplementary oxygen. The two Indian climbers Debasish Biswas and Basanta Kumar Singa Roy (both on their 3rd Main-8000er) and the two Chinese climbers Rao Jian-Feng (his 6th) and Yang Chun-Feng (his 8th) and one of their Sherpas used the bottled gas. 

This information was compiled by private correspondence. If there is additional information or corrections, it will be updated immediately.

 
Annapurna I Tragedy - Hungarian Climber Missing
Tuesday, 08 May 2012 23:36

Since Saturday, after his last call from about 6800 m on Annapurna I there was no radio contact to Hungarian climber Tibor Horváth (born October 27, 1978). It seems that an ice avalanche buried him. Tibor attempted Cho Oyu in 2010 and Lhotse in 2011.

Condolences go to his family and friends.

Report (in Hungarian)

 
More Annapurna I Summits, Radek's Nr. 13!
Sunday, 06 May 2012 14:25

Czech climbers Radek Jaroš and Jan (Honza) Trávníček summited Annapurna I today. For Radek it is his 13th Main-8000er (all without bottled oxygen!), he only needs K2 to finish the 14. Honza ascended his third 8000er after Gasherbrum I in 2009 and Manaslu in 2011.

Report

 
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