Almanac

Born on this day

1970 Marco Camandona, Italian climber, who ascended Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu in 1998, K2 in 2000, Annapurna I in 2006, Everest in 2010 and Kangchenjunga in 2014.


Gone on this day

1987 Yasuhira Saito, Japanese climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1982, Manaslu in 1985 and Annapurna I by the South face, where he died by a fall on descent, aged 34, together with his summit partner Toshiyuki Kobayashi, who was 22.


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Draft Summary
Wednesday, 03 August 2011 13:41

Before K2 will be in the focus soon, here is a draft table of the Karakoram-8000ers ascents
so far this season.

If somebody is missing from this table, please inform.

GASHERBRUM I 13. 07. GÖSCHL Gerfried A   7  
      UNTERBERGER Günther A   2  
      WENZL Hans A   3  
      ZECHMANN Stephan A      
      MADARIAGA Juan Ramón (Juanra) E   5  
      TAMAYO José Carlos E   5  
      TXIKON Jon Alexander (Alex) E   8  
      PANZERI Mario ITA   13  
      HASSAN PAK      
      ALLEN Richard (Rick) UK   4  
BROAD PEAK 22. 07. ARIAS Xavier (Xavi) E   5  
      AYMAR Xavier (Xavi) E   4  
      BOLOTOV Aleksei RUS   11  
      GRAZIANI Yannick F   2  
  25. 07. DENIS Sophie F f 4  
      BREDENKAMP Andre Victor SA   2  
      SMETS Wim BEL   3 first Belgian
      STITZINGER Luis GER   5  
      VON MELLE Alix  GER f 5  
GASHERBRUM II 14. 07. HARRER Otto A   2  
      LEITNER Hubert A   2  
      RUMPL Anton (Toni) A      
      CORONA Giampaolo ITA   3  
      SCHIJLEN Elias (Elio) NL      
  22. 07. LEITNER Karl A   2  
      WENZL Hans A   4  
      ZECHMANN Stephan A   2  
      DUBE-FAHMY Justin CAN     first Canadians
      ROUSSEAU Louis CAN   3 first Canadians
      IMSTEPF Willi CH      
      VOLKEN Kilian CH   4  
      PAUNER Carlos, Juan E   12  
      TXIKON Jon Alexander (Alex) E   9  
      QUINTERO Santiago ECU   3  
      LINZ Norbert GER      
      ESFANDIARY Leila IRN f 2 first Iranian female, died on descent!
      GHEYCHI SAZ Azim IRN   6  
      HASHEMI Mahmoud IRN   4  
      MOQADAM Husain IRN   2  
      SENTIERI Samuele ITA      
      SILVETTI Fabrizio ITA      
      ABBAS PAK      
      ALI SHER Nisar Hussain PAK      
      KAZIM PAK      
      DZIK Aleksandra (Ola) POL f
TELER Jacek POL   2  
      KHITRIKOVA Maria (Masha) UKR f first Ukrainian female!
 
More Gasherbrum II Summits Today
Friday, 22 July 2011 12:03

Alex Txikon ascended Gasherbrum II today, only nine days after he summited Gasherbrum I. It was his ninth Main-8000er! Also Louis Rousseau summited with him (3rd 8000er)!

Report (in Spanish)

 
Additional Gasherbrum I plus Gasherbrum II Summits
Friday, 15 July 2011 12:55

On July 13th five more climbers ascended Gasherbrum I! They were Juanra Madariaga (Spain, 5th Main-8000er), Günther Unterberger (Austria, 2nd), Stephan Zechmann (Austria, 1st), Alex Txikon (Spain, 8th), Rick Allen (UK, 4th) and Mario Panzeri (13th!!).

On July 14th there were five climbers reported on top of Gasherbrum II:

Dutch climber Elio Schiljen, the three Austrian climbers Otto Harrer (2nd), Hubert Leitner (2nd) and Toni Rumpl and Italian climber Giampaolo Corona (3rd)!

Report (in German)

Report (in Italian)

Report (in Italian)

 
Gasherbrum I Summits
Wednesday, 13 July 2011 08:25

Today Austrians Gerfried Göschl (7th Main-8000er) and Hans Wenzl (3rd) and also Spanish Basque climber José Carlos Tamayo (5th) summited Gasherbrum I! Other climbers were on the way to the top as well (Günther Unterberger, Stefan Zechmann, Juanra Madariaga and Alex Txikon)! Louis Rousseau turned back from 50 metres below the top!

Report (in German)

 
Indian Lady Climbers, Kangchenjunga Details and Age Record
Sunday, 05 June 2011 21:40

Some remarkable feats were achieved by Indian lady climbers this year on Everest.


The first woman on top the past season was Tine Mena, who summited on May 9th and also was the first woman from the Indian Northeast state Arunachal Pradesh on top of the world!


In pre-monsoon 2010 nine female ascents were done by American lady climbers. This time the record was broken by Indian ladies! One of the also nine female climbers, Anshu Jamsenpa, ascended the mountain twice in the season within nine days, only Nepalese Sherpani Chhurim, who was part of the same expedition achieved the same feat two days earlier! In addition Indian ladies had 10 Everest ascents in May 2011!


Women from three more Indian states ascended Everest this year: Mrs. Premlata Agrawal, the first from Jharkand, was also the oldest Indian woman on top of Everest with the age of 45. The other two Indian states were Rajasthan with Nivedita Chaudhary and Bihar with Nirupama Pandey! Now 14 Indian states had at least one lady climber on top of Everest! Among the other successful Indian women was Sushma Kaushik, who summited with her husband and so they became the first Indian married couple!



The past season there were five new nations on top of Kangchenjunga: Iran (Azim Gheychisaz), Turkey (Tunç Findik), Ireland (Anselm Murphy), Azerbaijan (Israfil Ashurly) and Serbia (Dragan Čeliković)! Also the first lady climber from the Spanish province Asturias summited, Rosa Fernández! In addition the first two non-Tibetan Chinese climbers were on top of Kangchenjunga: Rao Jian-Feng from Guandong and Yang Chun-Feng from Xinjiang!


Not to forget the two Indian climbers from West Bengal, who summited Kangchenjunga after their success one year ago on Everest: Basanta Kumar Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas! 

And last but not least again an Indian climber achieved another remarkable record. Arjun Vajpai is not only the youngest climber on Lhotse, but also the youngest climber, who ever ascended both mountains, Everest and Lhotse!

 
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