Almanac

Born on this day

1963 Daniel De Gabai, French climber, who ascended Manaslu in 2015.


First ascents on this day

1988 Menlungtse West-Peak (7023 m) by a British party.


Gone on this day

1998 Sergei Arsentiev (39), Russian climber, who ascended Kangchenjunga in 1989, Everest in 1990 and Annapurna I in 1991. He ascended Everest in 1998 for the second time (both from the North), this time with his wife Francys (40), both were without bottled oxygen and tragically died on descent.


Read more...
Sad News on Everest
Wednesday, 15 May 2013 12:15

Today Aleksei Bolotov, one of the leading Russian high altitude climbers died after a fatal fall on Everest. Together with Denis Urubko he wanted to open a new route on the Southwest face.

Aleksei ascended Makalu in 1997, Everest twice (1998 and 2002), Lhotse Central-Peak in 2001, Dhaulagiri I in 2005, Cho Oyu in 2006, K2 in 2007, Annapurna I in 2008, Manaslu in 2009, Gasherbrum I and II in 2010 and Kangchenjunga and Broad Peak in 2011.  

A summary of the accident is reported here.

Our condolences go to Aleksei's family and friends!

 
Another Fatality on Everest
Wednesday, 08 May 2013 12:03

Yesterday a Nepalese Sherpa climber died by a fall on Everest between Camp II and Camp III. His name was Lobsang, he was from Kharikhola and he climbed Everest before three times (2007, 2010 and 2011).

Condolences go to his family and friends!

 
Chhang Dawa's 14th 8000er Reported
Wednesday, 01 May 2013 17:09

Yesterday several climbers were reported on the Main-Peak of Shisha Pangma.

Tunç Findik was one of them; he was the first climber from Turkey on top of this mountain and it was his eighth 8000er. Also Ecuadorian climber Santiago Quintero summited and it is his fifth 8000er.

The Nepalese Sherpa climber Chhang Dawa claims to have finished the 14 8000ers with Shisha Pangma. If all ascents are confirmed he would be the second Nepalese climber with all the 14 after his brother Mingma. He also would be the youngest one, who finished them with 30 years and nine months.

Two other Nepalese Sherpa climbers summited with them, Mingma Thinduk and Nima Dorchi.

Report

Also German climbing couple Luis Stitzinger and Alix von Melle and Austrian climber Rupert Hauer were reported on top.

Report

 
Makalu Ascents and Fatality
Saturday, 27 April 2013 09:31

It was reported, that Makalu was ascended on April, 24rd by Iranian climber Azim Gheichisaz (his 11th 8000er), Nepalese Sherpa climber Lhakpa Dendi (his third time on Makalu), Chinese climber Yang Chun-Feng (also his 11th 8000er) and probably by another Chinese climber Liu Xiang-Yang (he was at about 8500 m on Everest last year). The latter sadly died by a fall on descent. Our condolences go to his family and friends.

first report

 
Korean Climber for 8000ers History
Thursday, 25 April 2013 12:47

There were 121 ascents on Everest done by South Korean climbers, but no ascent was achieved without supplemental oxygen.

Now Kim Chang-Ho, who already has climbed the other 13 8000ers without supplemental oxygen, will attempt to be the first South Korean climber, who ascends Everest without it as well. If he succeeds, he will be the first Korean with all 14 8000ers without bottled gas and he will finish for South Korea as the 20th country so far.

If he succeeds in May he would also be the fastest climber with all 14 8000ers with 7 years and about 10 months. Here you can check the table for comparison.

Korea Times article

Korea Herald article

 
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