Almanac

First ascents on this day

1939 Langpo South (6857 m) by a Swiss-German party.


Born on this day

1966 Lhakpa Ongyal, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Makalu four times (2001, 2009, 2011 and 2014), Manaslu in 2002, Everest twice (2004 and 2013) and Annapurna II in 2008 (first winter ascent!).


Gone on this day

2002 Jean-Noël Roche, French climber, who ascended Kumbhakarna (aka Jannu) in 1983, Dhaulagiri I in 1984 and Everest in 1990. He died in 2002, aged 52.


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The "Race"
Monday, 26 April 2010 12:51

It was not meant to be a „race“ between Edurne Pasaban, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Nives Meroi two years ago. But since the Korean ladies Oh Eun-Sun and Go Mi-Sun climbed one 8000er after the other, everything has changed. Now Edurne Pasaban and Oh Eun-Sun have thirteen of the fourteen each and Miss Oh could finish the “race” on Annapurna within the next days.

Since quite a while some doubts were discussed among climbers especially concerning the ascent in stormy weather on Kangchenjunga last year, but nobody wanted to talk about it in public. But now Ferran Latorre published his doubts, after one Sherpa climber told Edurne Pasaban just recently, that he would know, that they did not go to the summit. After a long conversation between Elizabeth Hawley and Edurne Pasaban it’s now up to Miss Hawley to clear it in detail. At the moment the summit is marked as ”disputed”. She will ask the three Sherpa climbers again and also Miss Oh after her return from Annapurna. It is possible, that it might be marked as “unrecognized”, when all facts are finally cleared.

The achievement to be the first woman on all 14 8000ers is a big one and it should be cleared exactly, if there are reasonable doubts.

In the mean time Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is attempting the North Face of Everest with her husband Ralf Dujmovits without bottled oxygen.


Ferran Latorre

BBC
Overview about the TOP 5 ladies

 
Everest 2009 - Additional Information
Friday, 23 April 2010 19:23

After a long research the ascents table, the nations table, the routes table and the daily ascents table on Everest are updated now! For 2009 apart from some Tibetan names everything is as correct and complete as possible.

Link to the Everest tables overview

 
Summits on Annapurna I
Sunday, 18 April 2010 12:37

Edurne's website published the news yesterday. She climbed her 13th 8000er! Now she only needs Shisha Pangma to finish the 14! Nacho Orviz (8000er Nr. 5), Alex Txikon (7) and Asier Izaguirre (5) also summited and Portuguese climber João Garcia finished the 14! The four relevant tables are already updated in the Download section!

Original source

 
Luca Vuerich Lost in Slovenia
Saturday, 23 January 2010 13:23

Sad News about Luca Vuerich, the companion of Nives Meroi and Romano Benet. He died yesterday after an avalanche in the Slovenian Alps. The original message you can find here!

Luca Vuerich ascended Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak in 2003, Lhotse in 2004 and Manaslu in 2008. He was only 34 years old! 

Heartfelt condolences go to his family and friends!

 
Summary 2009 - Part 8 - Other Farewells
Monday, 04 January 2010 15:38

Apart from the victims on the 8000ers, who are listed in the fatalities tables, several other climbers, who ascended 8000ers or high 7000ers before, died in 2009.

We had to say farewell to both first ascenders of K2 from Italy, to Achille Compagnoni (94) on May 13th and to Lino Lacedelli (83) on November 20th.

Also at home died Austrian climber Peter Fessler (48). He ascended Broad Peak in 1999, Gasherbrum I in 2004 and Manaslu in 2007. He was a member of Gerfried Göschl's Nanga Parbat expedition last summer, but sadly died on May 16th, before the expedition started.

The famous mountaineer and philosopher Arne Naess sr., who ascended Tirich Mir in 1950, died on January 12th also at home, aged 96.

On January 10th the young British climber Robert (Rob) Gauntlett, who ascended Everest in 2006, died in an avalanche in the French Alps, aged only 21!

Mick Parker (36) from Australia, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2003, Broad Peak in 2004, Gasherbrum I in 2007 and Makalu two weeks before, died in his hotel room in Kathmandu on June 4th.

Italian climber Giuliano de Marchi (62), who ascended Shisha Pangma in 1985 and Cho Oyu in 1988, died on June 5th on Antelao in the Dolomites.

Andrzej Marciniak (50) from Poland, who ascended Everest in 1989 and Annapurna I in 1996, died on August 7th on Posrednia Gran in the High Tatras.

Norwegian climber and adventurer Sven Gangdal (55), who ascended Everest in 1996, Shisha Pangma Central-Peak in 1999, Manaslu in 2002, Makalu in 2004 and Lhotse in 2006, died in a boat accident in Norway on September 13th.

Péter Csizmadia (37) from Hungary, who ascended Gasherbrum I in 2007, died together with three companions in an avalanche on Ren Zhong Feng (ca. 5820 m, South of the Minya Konka range) on October 22nd during a first ascent attempt. The mountain was thought to be 6079 m high, but during the successful first ascent from Danish climbers five weeks later the GPS measuring proved it wrong.

And last, but not least, Tomaž Humar (40), the strong climber from Slovenia, who ascended Annapurna I in 1995, Shisha Pangma in 2002 and Annapurna I East-Peak in 2007, died on Langtang Lirung on November 10th.

 
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