Almanac

Born on this day

1925 Ruedi Schatz, Swiss pioneer, who participated in the first attempt on Dhaulagiri I. Together with his companion Peter Braun he reached ca. 7600 m on May 29, 1953, the day of the first ascent of Everest. He died in Switzerland 1979 on a canoe trip, aged 54.


Gone on this day

1988 Michael J. (Mike) Cheney, British adventurer and journalist, who stayed in Nepal for more than 30 years. He organized mountaineering and trekking adventures and informed worldwide about mountaineering in Nepal, cooperating with the famous Miss Hawley. He died, aged 59.


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Another New Route Attempt on Cho Oyu
Tuesday, 15 September 2009 10:58

Chech climber Leopold Sulovský is leading an expedition to Cho Oyu. They will attempt to climb a new route on the SW Face. Details are reported here!

 
Beka Brakai Chhok and Simone Moro
Tuesday, 11 August 2009 16:12

In March of this year, news sites on the internet created controversy based on a writer who claimed to know that Simone Moro was aware he did not climb the highest of the three Beka Brakai Chhok peaks.

This is certainly untrue and will be explained here in detail. The “case” of Beka Brakai Chhok (BBC) is truly one of the most confusing subjects in the history of High Asian research. Simone Moro achieved a fine, historical first ascent, a relatively rare feat in modern times. He and his companion Hervé Barmasse well deserved the “Dalla Longa Award”: BBC South is without question the most beautiful and the most challenging of the three BBC peaks.


In 2006, after private correspondence, it was realized that BBC Central is the highest of the three summits.


If you want to know the difference between the “big” world of passionate climbing, and the “small” world of private passionate research, then you need look no further than the story of BBC. This is a saga about peak identification and listing: it is about comparing maps and checking photos from all directions, mainly panoramas produced by expeditions that achieved first ascents. People involved in this confusing story are not to blame, particularly not the recent first ascensionists.

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Italian pioneer and Polish mountaineer died
Saturday, 08 August 2009 16:30

On August 6th, Riccardo Cassin, the leader of the successful Gasherbrum IV expedition in 1958, died, aged 100.

Report


Yesterday the Polish mountaineer Andrzej Marciniak was found dead on Posrednia Gran in the High Tatras. He ascended Everest in 1989 and Annapurna I in 1996. He was 50 years old.

Report

 
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