Almanac

Born on this day

1946 James Sparks, American climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 1997 and Everest in 2001.


Gone on this day

2002 Karel Jakeš, Slovak climber of Czech origin, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1984, died in an avalanche in the High Tatras, aged 49.


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Summary 2009 - Part 2 - Fatalities
Tuesday, 29 December 2009 18:32

Please find in the Download Section all updated fatality tables!

There were over 450 ascents and five fatalities on Everest, no ascent and one fatality on K2, 25 ascents and no fatality on Kangchenjunga, 25 ascents and one fatality on Lhotse, 27 ascents and one fatality on Makalu, 16 ascents in spring (plus well over 100 ascents in fall) and two fatalities on Cho Oyu, 35 ascents and two fatalities on Dhaulagiri I, 30 ascents in spring (plus a similar number in fall) and two fatalities on Manaslu, 22 ascents and two fatalities on Nanga Parbat, three ascents and one fatality on Annapurna I, 19 ascents and no fatality on Gasherbrum I, no ascent and one fatality on Broad Peak, two confirmed ascents and one fatality on Gasherbrum II and two ascents and one fatality in autumn on Shisha Pangma. 

 
Summary 2009 - Part 1 - Everest and Collectors
Monday, 28 December 2009 14:42

It was difficult this year to compile the chronicles. Some false information was around on the net, but it was sorted out finally. The countings of the ascents of Everest are not finished yet, there were over 450! The fatalities table and the table with ascents without bottled oxygen (addition: Ludovic Challeat!) are updated already. The others will follow as soon as possible!

 

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Confusion on Shisha Pangma’s North Face Routes solved
Wednesday, 07 October 2009 18:19

Andrew Lock finished the 14 8000ers on October 2nd with Shisha Pangma. It was reported, that he made a variant of the “Iñaki route”, which is not correct.
 
To end confusion, 18 months ago the table with all routes and variants was published here and the original story with route sketch here, including a long forgotten route.

Austrian climbers made the first traverse to the East ridge in autumn 1980. It was published in the American Alpine Journal 1981, page 309, but forgotten in all publications afterwards until the launch of this website. The handmade route sketch was drawn by a member of the Austrian expedition and it was allowed to publish here under copyright.

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Another New Route Attempt on Cho Oyu
Tuesday, 15 September 2009 10:58

Chech climber Leopold Sulovský is leading an expedition to Cho Oyu. They will attempt to climb a new route on the SW Face. Details are reported here!

 
Beka Brakai Chhok and Simone Moro
Tuesday, 11 August 2009 16:12

In March of this year, news sites on the internet created controversy based on a writer who claimed to know that Simone Moro was aware he did not climb the highest of the three Beka Brakai Chhok peaks.

This is certainly untrue and will be explained here in detail. The “case” of Beka Brakai Chhok (BBC) is truly one of the most confusing subjects in the history of High Asian research. Simone Moro achieved a fine, historical first ascent, a relatively rare feat in modern times. He and his companion Hervé Barmasse well deserved the “Dalla Longa Award”: BBC South is without question the most beautiful and the most challenging of the three BBC peaks.


In 2006, after private correspondence, it was realized that BBC Central is the highest of the three summits.


If you want to know the difference between the “big” world of passionate climbing, and the “small” world of private passionate research, then you need look no further than the story of BBC. This is a saga about peak identification and listing: it is about comparing maps and checking photos from all directions, mainly panoramas produced by expeditions that achieved first ascents. People involved in this confusing story are not to blame, particularly not the recent first ascensionists.

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