Almanac

Born on this day

1972 Jeffrey James (Jeff) Justman, American climber, who ascended Everest in 2004, Broad Peak Foresummit in 2006 and Cho Oyu in 2007.


First ascents on this day

1971 Malubiting (7453 m) by an Austrian party.


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Kurt Albert died after fatal Fall
Tuesday, 28 September 2010 11:59

Kurt Albert, the "Father of Red Point climbing" is dead. He died yesterday evening (September 28th) after a fatal fall on Sunday. The famous German free climber was born on January 28th, 1954. One of his most outstanding climbs was the "Eternal Flame" on the Nameless Tower in the Karakoram in 1989, which he climbed together with the late Wolfgang Güllich. He will be deeply missed.

Report (in German)

 
Christian Stangl: Additional Imaginations?
Tuesday, 14 September 2010 17:18

After his imagination to have climbed K2 in August, several other achievements of Christian Stangl were questioned and if one compares his claims on his website and in his book with other expedition reports or witnesses, there are also some additional imaginations:

1) Shisha Pangma solo claim: He climbed together with a Basque expedition and he shared his tent with one of the members!
2) Cho Oyu new route and solo claim: He changed to the normal route and also shared a tent with another climber. This is also mentioned in the Himalayan Database.
3) Everest speed climb: Other Austrian climbers stated, that he did not start from ABC, but from The North Col.

During the K2 press conference he complained that it is embarrassing, when there are people, who wants to confirm everything, the whole free spirit of mountaineering would be in danger.

But, if everything could be confirmed, the only danger would be, that no more "Koma mountaineering" is possible! 

Report (in German)

 
K2: Christian Stangl's Confession
Tuesday, 07 September 2010 08:45

Christian Stangl told the Austrian press today, that he was not on top of K2. He "only imagined the summit", he said in a press conference.

Report (in German)

It is very hard to believe his explanation. Mentioned besides, Christian Stangl read a book named "Vater (= Father) Morgana" at the time, before he "imagined" to be on top of K2!

Report (in German)

 
K2 ascent: Official Statement from Christian Stangl
Tuesday, 31 August 2010 14:44

"Since I have got several blackmails und threats from some people of the Climbers community I hereby state, that I am not willing to discuss and much less defend summiting K2.

Furthermore, for me it is of no importance to be on any of the ?summiters? lists. Just want to remind that webplatforms are not considered being in court. If climbing 8000+peaks (and only there) includes experiencing all the bad rumours and threats I had to endure since summiting K2 I don't want to be a member of this "climbing community" any more. I know very well who started spreading the rumors/story - I just refer to the book of Michael Kodas "High Crime".

I am not climbing for anybody else but me!

Best regards,

Christian Stangl"

Comment from the Editor:

Christian Stangl attempts to be the first on a new climbing list, the so called "Second Seven Summits", which includes K2, so he should like to clear all the doubts for himself as well. Let's hope, that he changes his mind.

 
KAF doubts Miss Oh's Kangchenjunga Ascent
Friday, 27 August 2010 11:18

The question about who is the first lady climber, who ascended all 14 Main-8000ers is still not answered completely! Even the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) is doubting the Kangchenjunga ascent of Oh Eun-Sun as well now. Now it needs to wait, until Miss Hawley has spoken with the third Sherpa climber, who was on Kangchenjunga with Miss Oh in spring 2009, Pema Tshering. It's a pity, but one of the two other Sherpa climbers, must have lied, either Dawa Wangchuk, who said, they were on top, or Nurbu, who said, they were only near the Rappel area, which is quite far from the top.

report

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