Almanac

Born on this day

1979 Pemba Tshering IV (aka Maila), Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest nine times (2005, 2006, 2012, 2013, 2017, 2019, 2021, 2022 and 2023), Lhotse in 2008, Makalu and Cho Oyu in 2014, Kangchenjunga in 2018, Manaslu RP twice (2018 and 2019) and Manaslu M in 2023.


First ascent on this day

1955 Parchamo (6279 m) by a British party.


Gone on this day

2014 Then Dorje, Nepalese Sherpa climber, who ascended Everest six times (2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2010) and Manaslu RP in 2006, died in an avalanche on Everest, aged 30.


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Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner: K2 again
Monday, 02 May 2011 19:50

Austrian lady climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (40) announced, that she will go to K2 again this summer, together with her German husband Ralf Dujmovits (49) and the Argentinean climber Tommy Heinrich (49). Probably a Polish climber and possibly two Kazakh climbers will join the expedition as well. They will attempt the mountain from the Chinese North side.

Report (in German)

 
Manaslu Summits
Sunday, 01 May 2011 22:03

It is reported, that the Iranian Manaslu expedition was successful on April 29th with seven man and one woman on the summit.

Parvaneh Kazemi is the first Iranian lady climber on top of Manaslu.

For Mohammad Hassan Najarian it is the sixth 8000er after Gasherbrum II in 1997, Everest in 1998, Makalu in 2001, Lhotse in 2002 and Broad Peak in 2008.


Report 

 
Short 2010 Chronicles
Saturday, 30 April 2011 12:00

Part 1)


a) new Nations/Tribes (overall)


April 26th: Iran on Dhaulagiri I
April 27th: Romania on Annapurna I
May 17th: Malta on Everest
May 23rd: Montenegro, Bangladesh and Oman on Everest
May 23rd: The first Nepalese climber from the Jirel tribe on Everest
May 25th: Netherlands, Turkey and Greece on Makalu
July 17th: South Africa on Broad Peak
July 19th: Colombia on Gasherbrum I (not confirmed!)
September 30th: Sweden on Manaslu


b) new Nations - Lady climbers


April 17th: Spain on Annapurna I
May 17th: Spain on Shisha Pangma
May 17th: Finland on Everest
May 23rd: France and Switzerland on Makalu
May 23rd: Austria and Guatemala on Everest
May 23rd: Canada on Lhotse
May 24th: Austria on Everest without additional oxygen
August 5th: USA on Gasherbrum I
October 1st: Germany and Mexico on Manaslu



Part 2)


Nekrolog


January 22nd: Luca Vuerich (34, Italy) - Avalanche in the Slovenian Alps, died in hospital in Udine.
January 29th: Mikael Reuterswärd (45, Sweden) - Found dead at his home.
April 2nd: Farshad Khalili (46, Iran) - Avalanche Mid-Alborz.
April 23rd: Yun Chi-Won (39, South Korea) - on Manaslu
April 26th: László Várkonyi (53, Hungary) - on Everest
April 28th: Bartolomé (Tolo) Calafat (39, Spain) - on Annapurna I
May 7th: Sergei Duganov (43, Russia) - on Lhotse
May 15th: Han Xin (40, China) - on Dhaulagiri I
May 25th: Hiroshi Ogasawara (62, Japan) - on Everest
May 26th: Peter Kinloch (28, UK) - on Everest
May 28th: Zaharias (Haris) Kiriakakis (44, Greece) - on Makalu
May 29th: Peter Ressmann (44, Austria) - Fall in the Austrian Alps
August 6th: Fredrik (Frippe) Ericsson (35, Sweden) - on K2
September 28th: Osamu Tanabe (49, Japan) - on Dhaulagiri I
September 28th: Toshio Yamamoto (36, Japan) - on Dhaulagiri I
September 28th: Pasang Gelu I (46, Nepal) - on Dhaulagiri I
October 3rd: Walter Nones (39, Italy) - on Cho Oyu
October 23rd: Chuwang Nima aka Chhewang Nima (43, Nepal) - Avalanche on Baruntse


Special note:


May 23rd: 169 ascents on one day on Everest, which is by far a new world record!

 
Kim Jae-Soo possibly climbed all 14
Friday, 29 April 2011 09:46

It is reported, that Kim Jae-Soo also ascended Annapurna I on April 26th! The report claims all the 14 8000ers for him, but there is a problem.

Some years ago a Korean mountaineer and chronicler informed about a climbing date for Kim Jae-Soo on Cho Oyu in 1993. It was attempted to confirm this ascent, because nobody outside of Korea knew about it! No details were given since then. So Miss Hawley had and has no entry for this ascent in her Himalayan Database. 

As long, as there is no clarifying answer from Korea about the 1993 Cho Oyu ascent, the ascent remains unrecognized in our archives and not even recorded in the Himalayan Database.

Hopefully it will be cleared soon

His Annapurna ascent report

 
Erhard Loretan died in the Alps
Friday, 29 April 2011 08:48

The third climber, who ascended all the 14 8000ers, Swiss mountaineer Erhard Loretan, died yesterday, on his 52nd birthday by a fatal fall in the Alps!

Our condolences go to his family and friends!

Report (in German)

 
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