Almanac

Born on this day

1968 Ryuseki Hiraoka, Japanese climber, who ascended Nanga Parbat in 1997, Cho Oyu twice (2007 and 2016), Manaslu RP five times (2008, 2011, 2015, 2018 and 2019) and Everest five times (2011, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019).


First ascents on this day

1966 On this day an Indian party reported the first ascent of the highest mountain in the Gori Chen group, the most westernly group of the Kangtö range. For this mountain there are several wrong coordinates published on the internet. The coordinates of the mountain probably climbed on this day are 27°47'42" N and 92°23'15" E. This mountain is entirely in India. SRTM data give about 6450 m, so the revised altitude from 1994 to 6488 m is possible. But there is a mountain of similar height in the group, entirely in Tibet: 27°50'48" and 92°23'39", SRTM 6472+ m. It is possible, that this one is higher than the one in India. Only new surveys across the border will clear, which mountain is the highest in the group. The Tibetan mountain is still unclimbed.


Read more...
Sepp Larch Died, aged 81
Donnerstag, 13. Oktober 2011 um 19:56

Josef (Sepp) Larch, South Tyrolean born Austrian pioneer, who participated in the first ascent of Gasherbrum II back in 1956, died in Weyer last Friday, aged 81.

He was born on July, 28th, 1930.

Report (in German)

 
George Band Gone
Samstag, 27. August 2011 um 10:53

George Band, a British pioneer, who was one of the first ascenders of Kangchenjunga in 1955 and a member of the successful Everest expedition in 1953, died yesterday, aged 82. He was born on February 2nd, 1929.

More information about him here.

 
Gerlinde on Top of K2
Dienstag, 23. August 2011 um 12:45

Finally she made it! At 18h18 local time Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner finished the 14 8000ers! She is now the first lady climber with all 14 8000ers without the use of bottled oxygen. Also Vassili Pivtsov and Maksut Zhumayev are not far from finishing the 14 8000ers with her! Darek Załuski from Poland is also on his way to the top.

Update: All four climbers were on top and are now on descent. They hope to reach Camp IV.

Keep the fingers crossed for a safe return.

Update: All are safe back in BC and soon on their way home.

Report (in German)

The All 14 table is already updated.

Table download

The updated "Female 3 to 14" Table:

Table

 
Older and Newer Summit Additions
Donnerstag, 04. August 2011 um 20:28

Today five Iranians summited Gasherbrum I, Azim Gheychi Saz (now 7 Main-8000ers) and Mahmoud Hashemi (5) at 10:55 local time, Iraj Maani (3) and Husain Moqadam (3) at 12:00 and Koorosh Negahban at 13:10.

On July 22 two more ascents were achieved on Gasherbrum II, French father and son Pascal and Robin de Thiersant! Grandfather Erige climbed to about 7500 m and then needed to turn around.

Report (French)

 
Draft Summary
Mittwoch, 03. August 2011 um 13:41

Before K2 will be in the focus soon, here is a draft table of the Karakoram-8000ers ascents
so far this season.

If somebody is missing from this table, please inform.

GASHERBRUM I 13. 07. GÖSCHL Gerfried A   7  
      UNTERBERGER Günther A   2  
      WENZL Hans A   3  
      ZECHMANN Stephan A      
      MADARIAGA Juan Ramón (Juanra) E   5  
      TAMAYO José Carlos E   5  
      TXIKON Jon Alexander (Alex) E   8  
      PANZERI Mario ITA   13  
      HASSAN PAK      
      ALLEN Richard (Rick) UK   4  
BROAD PEAK 22. 07. ARIAS Xavier (Xavi) E   5  
      AYMAR Xavier (Xavi) E   4  
      BOLOTOV Aleksei RUS   11  
      GRAZIANI Yannick F   2  
  25. 07. DENIS Sophie F f 4  
      BREDENKAMP Andre Victor SA   2  
      SMETS Wim BEL   3 first Belgian
      STITZINGER Luis GER   5  
      VON MELLE Alix  GER f 5  
GASHERBRUM II 14. 07. HARRER Otto A   2  
      LEITNER Hubert A   2  
      RUMPL Anton (Toni) A      
      CORONA Giampaolo ITA   3  
      SCHIJLEN Elias (Elio) NL      
  22. 07. LEITNER Karl A   2  
      WENZL Hans A   4  
      ZECHMANN Stephan A   2  
      DUBE-FAHMY Justin CAN     first Canadians
      ROUSSEAU Louis CAN   3 first Canadians
      IMSTEPF Willi CH      
      VOLKEN Kilian CH   4  
      PAUNER Carlos, Juan E   12  
      TXIKON Jon Alexander (Alex) E   9  
      QUINTERO Santiago ECU   3  
      LINZ Norbert GER      
      ESFANDIARY Leila IRN f 2 first Iranian female, died on descent!
      GHEYCHI SAZ Azim IRN   6  
      HASHEMI Mahmoud IRN   4  
      MOQADAM Husain IRN   2  
      SENTIERI Samuele ITA      
      SILVETTI Fabrizio ITA      
      ABBAS PAK      
      ALI SHER Nisar Hussain PAK      
      KAZIM PAK      
      DZIK Aleksandra (Ola) POL f
TELER Jacek POL   2  
      KHITRIKOVA Maria (Masha) UKR f first Ukrainian female!
 
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