Almanac

Born on this day

1977 Bhimsen Shah Thakuri, Nepalese climber, who ascended Everest in 2010.


First ascents on this day

1974 Shivling (6543 m) by another Indian party.


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Welcome to 8000ers.com

The site for all information about the mountains above 8000 metres
and for many mountains below!

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Kangchenjunga 70th First Ascent Anniversary Reminder
Samstag, 24. Mai 2025 um 23:27
My late grandfather Alfred Jurgalski (19.8.1904-25.05.1975) presented me a booklet named "Gipfelstürmer" (Summit Climber) in my early childhood with many first ascent stories from the early days to the first 8000er ascents. This might be the reason for my 44 years of researching the mountains and the climber's achievements. I am very thankful to him.
Today he is gone since 50 years, which coincides with the 70th anniversary of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga. I have compiled a small table with the live dates of the participants back in 1955 and hope this will help to complete the table for the memory of this historical achievement. You can find the table here.
 
25.4.2025, 17 Years 8000ers.com
Freitag, 25. April 2025 um 19:02

In 2024 two of my most important High Asian chronicle teachers would have been 100 years old, Anders Bolinder on May 18th and Józef Nyka on December 5th. I wonder, why they were not been honored within the climbing community, it seems they are forgotten or even unknown.

2024 was a very important or at least interesting year for 8000ers climbing. 11 male and 8 female climbers finished the 14 8K Main-Peaks! Alltogether they corrected 19 of their earlier wrong summits accepting the logical «rule» that only the highest reachable point counts as summited.

The brothers Mingma (already in 2023) and Chhang Dawa finished the true summits as the first brothers after correcting two false summits from long ago and despite they are already in the legacy table, where no wrong summit was noted and which counts forever after the pioneer era needed to be finished for style and historic reasons. So the insults and lies about me and my/our work from some mountaineers were totally unnecessary and they should apologize for the dangerous shit storm that they created against me after a confirmed giant boulevard press misinformation. In the mean time the new era table is widely recognized and climbers have no excuses for stopping before the true high points.

Also the first brother and sister pair finished last year, Dawa Gyalje and Dawa Yangzum and just some weeks ago Jorge Egocheaga finished after correcting three false summits. You can see the details within the table

I post this New Era table updated to April 7th 2025 for the climbing community and hope for helpful support again. Do not avoid the donation table upper right on the homepage. Thank you in advance!

There is no knowledge so far about the appearances on top of Shisha Pangma on October 9th 2024, but the community might be able to help and I correct what is possible.

The other five updated Main tables (Table with female ascents with at least 3 Main-Peaks, Transition table, Nations table, Nations table/female and Main corrections on Manaslu table) are updated as well and available per request.

New Era table

 

 
Clarification with Shrine for True Alpinism Heroes
Montag, 09. Oktober 2023 um 09:27

German press did not correctly translate the English word “legacy” used in the original press release, but wrongly translated it to “outdated” (in German), and that is far from what it was meant. The wrong translation appeared later in the international press too. Well, actually it should have been clear that neither 8000ers.com nor Guinness wanted - or could - delete those titles.

We would like also stress that Guinness did not determine the, from our point of view, necessary changes, but only 8000ers.com. They were well thought through proposals, how to handle the obviously Past-Future-Dilemma. Guinness just collect and publish claimed records confirmed by us.

That's just some parts of the German-speaking press - which didn't read anything about the 8000ers.com’s detailed statement - but immediately sensed a scandal and straight published it without fact-checking. Honestly, nobody has taken away any well-deserved title or importance from Jerzy Kukuczka, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, or from Reinhold Messner either. There wasn't a word about that in the press release either.

The detailed research information, published in the form of tables and detailed pdf documents was meant to show the results of years-long, accurate, collectively shared study.

We were and we are convinced that the results of our investigations are correct and should simply be published out of respect for the self-sacrificing work of the researchers over the years, which also includes experienced alpinists, involved in the process.

The “Historical Recognition Table” (now "Legacy Table") was actually intended to be as a “friendly bridge connecting and separating two eras”. We are convinced that it will remain the most important historical table in the history of 14 8,000-meter mountain climbers, and that it should be the respectful final table. It is valid forever and no research result was taken to account.

Lots of the climbers of the past believed to be on the highest point of the 8,000m peaks. Those ascents were historically accepted and we did not want to change them, we wanted only to classify them based on our research work.

With the appearance of the Nirmal Purja phenomenon, that earlier era should be considered historically ended, as an Alpine historical legacy. In fact, today's quick collection of all 14x8,000m peaks has nearly nothing to do with the summentioned era, for evident reasons. To be mentioned that one of the goals of this chart at the time of its 2022 publication was to seek for help from the community in order to fill all the blanks listed as “no evidence” (which don’t forcibly mean no summit!).

The former "new" table is actually only a transitional table in which the results of the passionate researchers are shown out of respect, but they also have a retrospective historical value and are very informative for several perspectives in the future.

The third table is designed for current and future quick summit collectors, the team being fully aware of the radical differences existing between this new era’s sport-like practices and the traditional exploration alpinism for which style first of all matters. Considering the absence of feedback from alpine institutions since 2021, it’s based on some simple rules widely recognized and accepted for years now, and already executed by many climbers. The simplest of those is: the summit is the summit.

These climbers will have to climb to the true summit since they know already where it is due to our work. Incidentally, the Nepalese outfitters have been informed of this by a team member since 2019 and since then, they are sticking to it.

The fact that Edmund Viesturs was the first person to actually climb the 14 8000 to the highest point in the last era is worth at least a mention and should also be honored. The fact that he thereby obliterates the old record is just the fantasy of superficial journalists, which so many have fallen for. A transfer to the third, new table for mountaineers of the old elite, because they want to complete the right peaks, forms the connection and upcoming acceptance of this historical separation of eras.

Finally, I would like to conclude that everything was well-intentioned and without any intent of rewrite history or cancel historical climbs; it was maybe not communicated in the best way but also misinterpreted and summarized ambiguously by some. A more detailed report is still being worked on with all aspects and perspectives, and it would be helpful if you now look closely at the three tables by also reading the headings realizing that from a chronicler’s point of view, the whole research was a gigantic past-future dilemma occurring in an unprecedented context of change for climbing the highest peaks in Himalaya and Karakorum.

The tables are created according to our latest status.

Legacy Table

Transition Table
 
8000ers Firsts New Table
Samstag, 16. September 2023 um 15:02

The new rules for 8000 m mountains collectors will be published after this weekend. Here is an overview with the most important records concerning first achievements in several categories. Reinhold Messner still owns several of them and nobody can take them away anymore.

Table

 
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